DESIGNING A SNEAKER

As with dress shoes, the process is similar to building a sneaker, but more molds are involved, especially to build the outsole of a shoe. Here is the process of designing a sneaker.

I start with the season's inspiration board and color palette:

Next, I work into a secondary mood board more specific to the design language of the shoe and begin sketching ideas until I get to a final design:

Once I have a design, the next step is to send out a tech package to the factory. A tech package starts with the last (the toe shape, heel height and the pitch of the construction) and the construction (the bottom part of the shoe). I create a technical sketch of the base unit for the sneaker that includes components, density, and measurements along with the overall design of the unit. At the same time I send the technical sketch for the upper (the part of the shoe that covers your foot).

The factory will come back with a blueprint from the mold supplier, and I will review the data printed to scale together with the engineering team to make sure that all measurements meet our company fit standards. And then I go back to the factory with any corrections.

Once we have the blueprint close to ready, we request an STL file and make a 3D print of the unit to review against the final blueprint for design aesthetics, scale and accuracy before we give the final approval to open the mold:

Simultaneous to the mold development, the factory is working on a prototype so we can see and make comments on the pattern lines.

While the factory works on prototypes, I start working with colors and materials to write specs for the skus that will eventually go to market. I create a digital CAD for every potential sku and these are used as merchandising tools as we preview the line with sales and merchandising teams.

After many rounds of review and edits we have the final market samples: